R.M. Williams boots are built to last decades, and the leather is what decides whether they do. Here is how to look after them, whichever leather you have.
How do you condition R.M. Williams boots?
Brush off the dust, wipe away any dirt with a damp cloth, let them dry, then work a thin coat of conditioner over the smooth leather with a sponge or soft cloth, avoiding the elastic sides. Leave them a few hours before wearing. Every month or two for daily wear is plenty.
First, which leather are your boots?
| Leather | How to tell | Condition with balsam? |
|---|---|---|
| Yearling (most Craftsman and Comfort boots) | Smooth, with a light grain | Yes |
| Kangaroo | Smooth, thin and very supple | Yes, very thinly |
| Suede | Soft, brushed nap | No. Brush and protector spray only |
| Rough out | Napped side outward, workwear look | No |
The method for smooth leather
- Brush. A soft horsehair brush lifts dust from the welt and seams so you are not working grit into the leather.
- Clean if needed. A barely damp cloth, or Renapur Leather Cleaner Spray on the cloth for real dirt. Let them dry naturally.
- Condition thinly. A small amount of balsam on a sponge, worked over the vamp, the toe crease, the counter and the shaft.
- Mind the elastic. Keep conditioner off the elastic gussets. It does nothing for them and can mark the fabric.
- Leave them. No buffing needed. A soft cloth afterwards adds a gentle sheen if you want one.
Should you use R.M. Williams' own conditioner?
If you want to follow the maker to the letter, yes, R.M. Williams sells its own conditioner and leather wax for its boots. Renapur also suits smooth yearling and kangaroo leather, and one jar will look after the rest of your leather as well. Whatever you use, test a hidden spot first: any conditioner can darken a light tan boot slightly.
How do you look after suede R.M. Williams boots?
Never with a conditioner or balsam, which flattens the nap and darkens suede permanently. Brush them with a soft brush in one direction to lift the nap, and protect them with a suede protector spray while they are clean and dry.
My boots got wet. What now?
Stuff them loosely with newspaper, stand them somewhere airy and leave them away from heaters and sun. Heat is what cracks wet leather. Once dry, condition them, because the water took oils with it.
How do you stop the toe crease cracking?
Condition regularly and use shoe trees between wears. The crease across the vamp flexes thousands of times a day, and a dry crease is where splits start.
