What not to use on suede and nubuck, and what to use instead

What should you never put on suede or nubuck?

Anything made for smooth leather. Conditioners, balsams, creams, dubbin, mink oil, neatsfoot oil and saddle soap all soak into the nap, flatten it and darken it, usually permanently. Water marks it too. Suede and nubuck want a brush, an eraser for marks, and a protector spray.

Suede or nubuck?

Both are napped. Suede is the inside of the hide, brushed up, with a longer, looser nap. Nubuck is the outer grain side, sanded, with a short, velvety nap. They are cared for the same way.

The do not use list

How do you clean suede?

1. Let it dry first if it is wet. Brushing wet suede pushes dirt in.
2. Brush in one direction with a soft brush to lift dust, then against the nap to raise it. A horsehair brush is soft enough not to mark it.
3. Lift marks with a suede eraser or a clean pencil eraser, gently.
4. Brush again to even out the nap.

How do you protect suede?

With a protector spray, on clean, dry suede. It helps water and stains bead off rather than soak in, without changing the texture. Spray evenly from a short distance in a well ventilated spot, let it dry fully, and reapply after heavy wear or a soaking.

Boots that mix smooth leather and suede

Plenty of boots and trainers combine both. Treat each with its own product: balsam on the smooth panels, applied carefully with a small sponge, and protector on the suede. Mask the suede if you are worried about a stray wipe.

Is it ever worth putting balsam on suede?

Only on a worn out item you are happy to turn into darker, smoother leather. Renapur says the same: it can rescue very tired suede, but the colour change is permanent.